Here’s a fun fact about Jeremy Scott: He never throws anything away. Not clothes, at any rate; speaking before his celeb-studded show tonight, Scott recalled that, when he was thirteen, he threw away a shirt he thought he didn’t like anymore, only to regret that choice a week later, and resolve, henceforward, to keep everything he could, just in case. “If I’ve worn it, it’s in a box somewhere,” he said. For his latest collection, Scott opened those boxes—figuratively, at least. Jeremy Scott’s muse this time out was Jeremy Scott, circa those tender-aged years when he was designing his own outré clothes and trying out eyebrow-raising hairdos and makeup looks to match.
Polaroids of young Scott featured in prints in this exceptionally well-put together collection. Other aspects of his nineties-era aesthetic elaborated the theme of self-celebration—though it’s much to Scott’s credit that his recycling of grunge plaid and club kid neon didn’t come off as nostalgic. Rather, his trip down memory lane read as a joyful pastiche, the looks de-literalized and given a romantic gloss of sequins or crystals or a jolt of the absurd via metastasized proportions and/or 3D embroideries reading “RIOT,” “HYPER,” “SEX,” PEACE.”
If there was an adolescent frisson to those sentiments, the production of the collection was 100% adult. In the past few years, Scott has taken the finishing of his clothes to a new level. The polish was especially notable here in the leather and sport mesh pieces inspired by motocross, and sui generis overalls with zips back and front and built-in stiletto heels. Maybe a better way to describe the latter garment, in fact, would be “over-the-shoulder boots”—but however they’re termed, they exemplified Scott’s ability to take a look that could easily seem wackadoodle and make it read as weird, yes, but also refined. Mesh or leather pieces covered with NBA logos managed the same neat trick. Perhaps Jeremy Scott has matured as a designer; perhaps the wackadoodle world has just caught up with him, at last. Scott’s approach to making fashion continues to seem the most sensible in this fraught political climate: He’s a missionary for the idea that the best way to resist—another word that showed up on clothes here—is to be brazenly, unapologetically yourself. To be your own muse, as it were. Going on the evidence of this Jeremy Scott-inspired Jeremy Scott show, that’s not a bad tack.source vogue